5 Days In Bolivia’s Amazon & Pampas: Uncovering The Secrets Of The Wild

When people think of the Amazon, they often picture thick green jungle, humid air, dangerous animals and poisonous insects. That’s all true – but nothing compares to actually being there and soaking in the beauty of the jungle.

Over five days, we explored both the Amazon Jungle (Madidi National Park) and the Pampas wetlands along the Yucuma River near Rurrenabaque, Bolivia with Indigena Tours. It became one of the most memorable trips of our lives – swimming with pink dolphins, walking barefoot through a canyon, spotting monkeys and caimans, discovering how local communities live in harmony with the forest, and much more!

Read along as I take you through each day of our journey, filled with unexpected encounters, wild surprises, and raw moments deep in the Amazon.

Getting to Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque is the gateway to the Madidi National Park (the Bolivian amazon jungle). We took the Flota Yungueña night bus from La Paz to Rurrenabaque – about 18 hours winding down from the cold highlands, through cloud forests, and into the warm, humid lowlands.

The night bus is the budget option, and while it’s not the smoothest ride (some stretches feel like you’re sitting on a slow-moving jackhammer), it’s an adventure in itself. If you prefer comfort, you can fly from La Paz to Rurrenabaque in under an hour. But we liked watching the scenery change – snow-capped peaks fading into rolling green hills, then finally the lush, deep green of the rainforest. For me, it was my first ever bus ride that was 18 hours and I absolutely enjoyed it!

When we stepped off the bus in Rurrenabaque, the difference hit instantly. The air was warmer, thicker, and smelled faintly of wet earth and blooming flowers. The little riverside town had a relaxed, almost sleepy energy – hammocks swaying in the guesthouses, kids cycling past barefoot, dogs dozing in the shade. It was such a nice feeling to feel the warmth of the sun after coming from the cold temperatures of La Paz.

We were graciously picked up by our tour company who dropped us to our accomodation even though our tour was starting the next day.

Day 1 – San Miguel del Bala & Stone Canyon

Our official start to the most awaiting once in a lifetime experience! We were picked up by Indigena tours and were taken to the office. Once we arrived at the office, we were given our rubber boots and the flashlight we had requested for. It turned out that we were the only two people for the first two days of the trip. And with us, we had a whole crew – a guide, a motorboat driver, a chef, and a cleaner!

We met our crew at the port, loaded our bags into a long wooden boat, and headed upriver. The water was the color of milky coffee, swirling with sediment, but it shimmered under the morning sun. Kingfishers zipped low over the surface, flashing blue and orange before vanishing into the trees.

Our first stop was San Miguel del Bala, an indigenous Tacana community. We learned about their traditions – how they identify medicinal plants, the tools they craft from wood and vines, and the deep respect they hold for the forest. Here we had an amazing lunch as well.

San Miguel Stone Canyon

Then came the highlight: San Miguel Stone Canyon. Stepping inside was like slipping into a hidden pocket of the world. Towering walls of rock covered with lush green moss rose on both sides, filtering the sunlight into a soft golden glow. Cool water ran through the narrow passage. Our guide told us that in the past, this canyon was a passage way for the animals to cross as well. We took our rubber boots off and started to walk in the canyon barefoot. The stones underfoot were smooth and cool, the water refreshing against the heat of the day.

Halfway through, we saw them – bats darting silently above us. Their wings made a faint, rapid “whff-whff” sound, echoing off the canyon walls. Between the fluttering shadows, the soft trickle of water, and the faint earthy smell of damp rock, the place felt alive and ancient. It was absolutely magical and out of a fairy-tale!

Later, we continued our journey to the deep part of the jungle. As we arrived to our riverside lodge, with sun almost setting, our amazing chef prepared a hearty meal for us as we settled in our room. The silence and stillness of that place was unmatched. No roads, no traffic – just the steady chorus of crickets, frogs, and the gentle rush of the river. Falling asleep there felt like the forest was tucking us in.

Tip: For the canyon walk, wear shorts or roll-up pants and go barefoot if you don’t mind cool water between your toes.

Day 2 – Deeper into the Jungle & Night Walk

A Walk in the Amazon Jungle

We woke up to the jungle’s version of an alarm clock – the deep, almost guttural roar of howler monkeys in the distance and birds chattering like they had a morning gossip to share.

After a delicious breakfast of eggs, pancakes, fruits, and juice, we set off on a 3-4 hours forest walk. The jungle trail behind our lodge hadn’t been used much since COVID. Nature had reclaimed it – vines tugged at our sleeves, leaves brushed our faces. That meant more wildlife (keep reading for the surprising turn).

We learnt about plants that could heal fevers, bark used to treat asthma, felt the spiny trunk of the walking palm (most intelligent tree), and traced the endless highways and colonies of leafcutter ants. We also heard the whistle-like call of a screaming piha, and startled a wild “jungle chicken” into taking off with a noise like a tiny helicopter.

Our guide had this almost magical way of spotting monkeys. For a few minutes, we followed the faintest rustles and calls of yellow squirrel and capuchin monkeys, stepping slightly off-trail until – suddenly – there they were! We looked up, and a whole troop was above us: playing, chattering, and watching us with the same curiosity and wonder that we felt watching them.

We also spotted fresh footprints of Jaguar! Unfortunately, we did not get to see a jaguar itself.

The Snake We Weren’t Supposed to See

We asked our guide about the most venomous snake here.
“The bushmaster,” he said. “But you won’t see one. I haven’t in twenty years.”

There it was.

A bushmaster, stretched across the trail, easily 2.5–3 meters long, thick-bodied, and perfectly camouflaged against the forest floor. Its red tongue flicked in and out. We froze.

Because the trail was untouched for a few years, the animals had claimed it.

For thirty minutes, we stood in a respectful standoff, taking photos from a safe distance while our guide explained: bushmasters don’t usually attack unless threatened – but step on one by mistake, and you might have less than 45 minutes. In the local community, it is said that if a bushmaster snake bites you, you should smoke your last cigarette as that is the only time you will have! I felt the weight of those words. The jungle doesn’t make empty threats.

The jungle also has a way to surprise you.

Night Walk on the River

After dinner came the night walk. With headlamps on, we ventured into the dark. Now that we knew there was a bushmaster in the jungle, our guide decided to skip the night jungle tour and rather walk along and inside the river instead (with caimans in it!!)

Spider eyes sparkled back at us like tiny jewels, frogs clung to branches and on the river bed, and the jungle hummed with life. We saw some caiman eyes sparkling as we shone our light at them. At one point, we turned off all lights and stood still. The sound was overwhelming – a living, breathing symphony of insects, frogs, and unseen creatures.

We were scared after going calf-deep in the waters and knowing there are caimans in there but we trusted our guide (though did not trust our flashlights which were fading!).

Tip: Bring a strong flashlight or headlamp with fresh batteries, and long sleeves for mosquito protection – they definitely wake up after dark.

Day 3 – Welcome to the Pampas

Unlike Madidi (which is dense rainforest reached by boat upstream from Rurre), the pampas are wetlands and open grasslands. Because visibility is so good, it’s one of the best places in Bolivia to see wildlife up close.

We took the boat back to Rurrenabaque, enjoying a sunrise and the cool morning wind as we sped back. This was Day 1 of the Pampas tour – and a fresh crew joined our adventure: two awesome Belgian girls and a new guide. We piled into a vehicle, and rolled towards Santa Rosa – a gateway town to the Yacuma river. The 2 hour drive was amazing where we spotted a sloth, an anteater, and many capybaras.

Our beautiful lodge was tucked in the depth of the Yacuma river. We settled in and freshened up. We had enough time to rest and chill in the hammocks after lunch.

Spotting Caimans in the Dark

After dinner, we climbed back into the boat for a night-time caiman search. The sky stretched endlessly above us, blanketed with a million stars so bright it felt like the whole universe was watching. The air buzzed thick with mosquitoes, their hum constant in the darkness, as we drifted slowly along the still river. Then – suddenly – the beam of the guide’s flashlight caught a flash of red. Dozens of glowing eyes pierced through the black water and reeds, silent and unblinking. It was eerie and thrilling all at once, the Pampas revealing a wilder side of itself, alive with predators under the cover of night.

Day 4 – Anaconda Hunt & Piranha Fishing

Anaconda Hunt

This was the big day – anaconda hunting! The swamp stretched right behind our lodge, a tangle of reeds, shallow pools, and muddy ground that seemed to go on forever. After breakfast, we suited up in long rubber boots, loose long sleeves, and enough insect repellent to fumigate a small cabin (which, of course, lasted all of twenty minutes). The sun was already blazing, the kind of heavy heat that wraps around you and makes every step feel slower, heavier.

With mosquitoes swarming relentlessly, we sloshed into calf-deep swamp water, the mud tugging at our boots as if trying to pull us under. Every few steps, warm water leaked inside, squishing uncomfortably with each movement. Our guides fanned out with us, eyes sharp and sticks in hand, sweeping through reeds and lifting branches as they scanned for the telltale shimmer of scales. They moved with patience and practice, while we stumbled behind, sweaty and swatting at bugs.

For three long hours, we pushed deeper into the swamp, ears ringing with the hum of insects, sweat dripping down our backs… but no anacondas. Just the endless stretch of wetland, alive with the sound of buzzing, croaking, and the occasional splash.

Piranha Fishing

Back at the lodge, we rested just long enough to cool down before heading out for piranha fishing. The river was calm and our “fishing rods” were nothing more than simple wooden sticks with fishing line, a hook, and a bit of raw meat as bait. No reels, no fancy gear – just old-school fishing in the Amazon.

And guess who caught one on their very first attempt? Me! The moment I dropped the line into the water, there was a sudden tug, and before I knew it, a mouth full of razor-sharp teeth broke the surface. After that lucky start, the piranhas seemed to wise up. They nibbled at the bait so cleverly that half the time we’d pull the line back to find the hook stripped bare, no tug at all. Still, between all of us, we managed to catch six or seven, and our chef later fried them up for dinner. The taste was a surprise – flaky, a little sweet, but loaded with fine bones that made each bite a careful one.

Our day ended with a beautiful sunset near the lodge.

Visit from a Baby Anaconda

Another surprise from the mother nature. Just as we were finishing dinner, our guide called us over. In the water behind the lodge, a baby anaconda was swimming! We couldn’t believe it – three hours of searching in the swamp, nothing, and now here it was, gliding right past us. Ours was the only group to see one that week.

Nature really has its own way of giving.

Day 5 – Swimming with Pink Dolphins and Back to Rurrenabaque

Our final day in the Pampas was for something truly special – swimming with pink dolphins. The water was warm and murky, but the dolphins surfaced nearby, curious and unbothered. Being in the water with them was surreal – like sharing space with something both wild and gentle. There was a magic in knowing these creatures are found only here, deep in the Amazon, and that for a short while we were welcomed into their world. It wasn’t about chasing or holding them – just floating side by side, connected by curiosity.

Afterwards, we returned to the lodge for showers and a final meal before making the midday journey back to Rurrenabaque – by boat, and then by road.

Jungle vs Pampas: Which One Should You Choose?

Not everyone has the time or budget for a full 5-day Amazon adventure. Many travelers we met chose only the 3-day Pampas tour – and honestly, if spotting wildlife is your main goal, it delivers in abundance. You’ll see everything from playful monkeys and pink dolphins to countless birds, caimans, and maybe even an anaconda.

But for us, traveling all the way to the Amazon felt incomplete without stepping into the mystical jungle. The dense rainforest, the sounds at night, the challenge of spotting hidden creatures like the bushmaster snake – it was an experience we wouldn’t trade for anything.

The truth is, the jungle and pampas are two very different worlds – one is about the thrill of the wild wetlands, the other about the mystery of the rainforest. If you have both the time and budget, the good news is you don’t have to choose – many operators offer a combined 5-day tour that lets you experience the best of both. And if you have to choose one – go with the 3-day Pampas tour.

Packing for the Jungle and Pampas

What You Will Be Provided With

• Bottled water
• Meals
• Long rubber boots
• Flashlight (if requested)

What You Need to Bring

• Clothing: Lightweight, quick-dry outfits; loose long sleeves shirts and pants for mosquitoes and sun
• Footwear: Closed shoes, sandals for the lodge, and rubber boots (often provided)
• Sun and Insect Protection: High-DEET insect repellent, sunscreen SPF 50+, sunhat, sunglasses with straps
• Night gear: Headlamp or strong flashlight with batteries
• Rain Poncho: Depending on the season, a rain poncho would be very important
• Health: Vaccinations up to date including yellow fever vaccine. No need for malaria prevention as there are no cases of malaria there. Bring other important medications and anti-allergy pills with you
• Miscellaneous: Reusable water bottle, binoculars, a waterproof bag, and some extra snacks

If you don’t have any of these, don’t worry. There are many shops in Rurrenabaque that you can purchase from. We bought our rain poncho and loose long sleeved shirts from the shops in Rurrenabaque.

Other Advice to Respect Nature

Do Not Touch or Feed the Wildlife

The animals you encounter in the jungle and pampas are wild, not pets. Feeding or touching them can disturb their natural behavior and even put you at risk. So remember, no touching or feeding even if they come to your boat!

Listen to Your Guide

Your local guide knows the forest, river, and wetlands better than anyone. Following their instructions not only keeps you safe but also helps you spot wildlife you might otherwise miss. Therefore, always listen to them (unless they are doing anything unethical) and follow their advice.

Leave No Trace

Carry out everything you bring in. Respect the environment by avoiding littering and leaving nature exactly as you found it. No one should know you were ever there.

Where to Stay in Rurrenabaque

Rurrenabaque is a small town and there are many budget options to choose from. We stayed at El Curichal Hostel which had a nice pool and a mosquito net (very important!), and luggage storage services.

Lobo Hostel is another great option where our friends stayed and they had great things to say about it! It also had a pool and luggage storage services.

For a more luxurious experience and rooms with air conditioning (since it is very hot in Rurrenabaque), Casa de Campo can be a great option!

Final Thoughts

This trip wasn’t just seeing wildlife – it was feeling it. In the jungle, life roars all around before you see it. In the Pampas, it floats beside you on calm water. Each day brought something unforgettable – barefoot canyon walks, rare snake sightings, pink dolphin swims, and the surprise baby anaconda encounter.

Traveling with Indigena Tours felt like stepping into a storybook written by the wild itself. Every sunset, every bird’s cry, monkey chatter, and gleam of animal eyes reminded me that there’s more awe out there than most of us ever make space for.

If you get the chance, seize it. Let yourself be surprised, humbled, and utterly alive with every sound, sight, and surprise the wild offers.

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